As a professional sandwich eater, I have specific favorites scattered across the island—turkey salad at the Sandwich Board, meatloaf (cold) at Domenico’s, tuna salad at Jay’s (miss the ribbons), chicken salad at Greens and Grains, and muffaletta at Island Savoy Market. But if I were not already married, the sandwich shop I’d want to wed is Santoro’s Italian Market and Deli, at 475 Santa Clara Avenue on the West End. My love of Mike and Heidi goes back many years to when I was in need of bread for The Diary of Anne Frank, a play I was directing down the block at Encinal High. Kindly, generously, and lovingly they shared a loaf for each performance.
As for my favorite delectable item on their marvelous menu, well, I’ve ordered it so often they know it by heart—mortadella on a soft roll with cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onions, and mayo, wrapped in clean butcher paper adorned with Mike’s signature smiley face. But here’s another reason I love them so: They’re part of the neighborhood, and they know and are known by all, especially the students who trek from Jetland every day at lunch. The Santoros have been helping to raise these kids, who are more than customers to them. They, we, are family. Allow me to introduce the sandwich artist here, in 5Q4: Mike Santoro.
At what moment did you discover that you wanted to be an artist?
I decided to go back to making food when I got out of the construction business in 2008. Construction was taking a toll on my back. I had worked in my friend Andre’s Italian deli since I was 12 years old, and that’s how I knew the food business.
Who was the most influential person who helped you achieve your goal?
Heidi has been the most influential person to help me achieve my goal. We were really unsure about starting a food business. Almost everyone told us not to do it, but my dad said, “It’s only money and you never know until you try.” It has always been Heidi and me against the world. A lot of people told us that our relationship and business would never make it, but we always really supported each other and cheered each other on.
Tell about the best—or a best—experience you had as a performer?
We get to make food for special occasions. Sometimes it will be a husband coming in to pick up food for his wife who has just given birth to their first child, and then later we will get to watch their baby come in and have their first sandwich with us. I think that’s our favorite thing. We also make food for sad occasions, like catering for someone’s funeral, and that’s really hard but we’re grateful to hopefully bring some comfort to the person’s family with our food. One of my favorite experiences was when a young couple did their engagement photo shoot in front of our deli. That was really heartwarming.
Conversely, tell us about a pretty bad experience?
As far as a bad experience, one comes to mind. A lady who was middle-aged and had been raised in the U.S. asked us to explain what an Italian sausage was. We were pretty sure she’d had one before!
Any advice to folks out there hoping to pursue a life in the arts?
If you don’t have passion for the food business, it will come across in your food. We’ve been to several restaurants where the food looks appetizing but you take one bite and you can tell that there’s no love in the food. We never send food back, we just pay for it and give it away. We never write bad reviews for anyone either. Food has to be made with love or not at all.
Santoro’s Italian Market and Deli opens at 10:30 Monday through Friday, Saturdays at 11, and stays open until EOB (end of bread). Closed on Sundays. In addition to supreme sandwiches Mike and Heidi also serve specials, including lasagna, pizza, and other pasta delights. Check them out at santorosalameda.com or on Instagram @santorosiltaliandeli.
Gene Kahane is the founder of the Foodbank Players, a lifelong teacher, and former Poet Laureate for the City of Alameda. Reach him at [email protected]. His writing is collected at AlamedaPost.com/Gene-Kahane.
